[TUTORIAL] Encoding video anime or citer pape

[knight999]

This guide will start what will be a 3 guide series to help encoders,leechers and practically everyone to max out on their MT experience.

What we do on Minitheatre i.e Video Processing is a Three way process,

1.)Pre processing
2.)Processing aka Encoding
3.)Post processing aka Muxing, etc..

In this Guide 1 we will discuss pre-processing and how to accomplish it. Why it is necesarry and why it should not be merged with Step 2 i.e Encoding

PRE PROCESSING
Pre processing involves getting the source in perfect condition beforehand. It doesn't involve encoding, it only involves using proper filters, cropping/resizing and trimming video if required etc and finally previewing it on Media Player Classic or any compatible player
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Requirements
Avisynth and its Plugins
AvsPmod (For previewing)

Install Avisynth, and put the 'Plugins' you just downloaded into Avisynth's plugin folder(Usually Here:"C:\Program Files\AviSynth 2.5\Plugins\").
It contains all the 225 files I gathered for Avisynth plugins
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WHAT ARE FILTERS?
Filters are like make up. You use them to fix anything ugly in the video, so that your encodes turn out prettier than the source.
However, overdoing it with these filters, you'll end up with an even uglier encode, and by uploading it, you would have wasted your time, as well as the downloader's.
Therefore, it is important to spend some time when filtering, and not use the same filters everywhere. what works for one video might not work for the other.
So in the end, you really want to try a couple of filters when you start out with a series, to see what works and what does not.
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HOW TO MAKE A AVISYNTH SCRIPT
To make an avisynth script

1.)Open up your text editor (i.e:Notepad) or fire up AVSPmod
3.)Now type something like this

LoadPlugin("C:\Program Files\AviSynth 2.5\plugins\ffms2.dll")FFVideoSource("C:\Users\abc \Desktop\MySource.mkv")

4.)Save the text with the extension '.avs'

What we did now is called "loading" our video in avisynth. Using FFVideoSource like so, we can now play the saved '*.avs' file in any compatible player (i.e:MPC-HC)
To load images, you "ImageReader" instead of "FFVideoSource")
** At this point we haven't used any filters.
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ADDING FILTERS
First off, if you check the plugins folder, you'll see a lot of '.dll' files. These files are the filters we can use.
As long as you have a '.dll' file in the plugins folder, you can directly use it inside an avisynth file because it will be used/loaded automatically.
If you have this '.dll' file elsewhere, you have to load it manually inside the script using the "LoadPlugin" function like so:

LoadPlugin("C:\Users\abc\Desktop\masked_Tools.dll" ) #This allows us to use the 'masked_tools' filter now


Don't worry if you use a filter without loading its dll, avisynth will report this error

Beside '.dll' files, there are also '.avs' and '.avsi' files that carry inside of them scripts that act as filters.
The difference between '.avs' and '.avsi' is that the latter doesn't need to be loaded manually if it resides in the 'Plugins' folder, while '.avs' needs to be loaded manually each time.
And to do so, we use the 'Import' function like so:


Import("C:\Users\abc\Desktop\vmtoon.avs") #We can now use vmtoon anywhere in the script


** At this point, we learnt how we can load filters in a script. Note that we still haven't technically used them yet.
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[BASIC FILTERS] ~ Optional

CROP
As the name suggests, this filter can be used to crop of the black edges off the video source left by the original encoder
To use this:

crop(0,0,-0,-0)

From left to right, the values indicate how much to crop off the video starting from the: Left, Top, Right, Bottom. Note how Right and Bottom values are negatives.

RESIZING
To use it, the pattern is: RESIZER(WIDTH,HEIGHT)
RESIZERS: Bicubic, Spline36Resize, Spline64Resize(use this one), etc..
WIDTH,HEIGHT: together, they are the new resolution.
Putting this all together:

spline64resize(1280,720)

Don't forget to keep the aspect ratio intact. (AVSPmod can help a lot with this kind of filters)
What not to use--> Lanczos4Resize | PointResize | BilinearResize

TRIM
This filter allows you to cut the video from one point to another. Very useful if you want to test your filters with a sample encode.

trim(2000,4000)#trim(starting_frame,ending_frame)

Incase you want to trim different sections from the video, you can use the '+' operator like so:

trim(2000,4000) + trim(16000,18000)

Every 2000 frames approximate to like 1 minute of video footage so you should have a good enough sample to check beforehand ^_^

DEBANDING
I don't think most of you know what banding is... Banding happens when video is compressed and similar colors get posterized.
Theses undesirable, visible bands of color can be distracting, and in some cases downright ugly, especially on dark scenes.
And this is not rare at all... infact almost every single source has it in some frames if not all.
For example, Check Morita San no Mukuchi from 5-6 fansubs, all had the same issue somewhere or the other

To remove this banding, we use the filter Gradfun2DB

Gradfun2db()

You may wonder why don't fansubs use this filter then. The answer is that the video size will skyrock.
With 10bit making its way into encoding....very soon no banding issues will arise

** At this point, we have learnt a couple of filters that alter the video's global "shape".
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DENOISE FILTERS
Before we start, we need to lay down the difference between NOISE and GRAIN.
NOISE is bad for you. It takes additional bitrate and does not help you at all.
GRAIN is good for you. It helps with preserving details, and also helps on the banding case.
And so, denoising, as the its name, involves NOISE removal only.
A source with grain won't usually have noise, and recently with BDrips and all, noise isn't that much common anymore.

There are many denoise filters, ranging from subtle easy-going denoising, to strong and detail erasing denoising.
To name a few:
Subtle: UnDot, Unfilter(- ,- ), RemoveGrain, RemoveGrainHD, Msmooth
Strong: FT3DFilter, Edeen or strong DEEN
X264 has a built-in denoiser too, invoked by '--nr VALUE' which goes in the subtle category.

Back to avisynth, we can use removegrainHD like so on not so noisy videos:

LoadPlugin("C:\Program Files\AviSynth 2.5\Plugins\removegrainHD.dll")removegrainHD()


For very noisy sources, we have to use one of the strong denoisers, and here you should spend some time to watch over detail loss.
Here's a noisy screenshot:
i3.lulzimg.com/735d21f85b.png
and here are the results:
i3.lulzimg.com/c3783b519a.png > Deen(mode="a3d",rad=4)
i3.lulzimg.com/319451f070.png > eDeen(r=7,tuv=12,ty=10,luv=1,ly=1,hqc=true)
i3.lulzimg.com/991e7f4459.png > FFT3DFilter(sigma=6.0)

Note how FFT3D blurs the picture, and Edeen creates a bit of aliasing. For this pic I'd go for Edeen. Deen isn't enough for this. I should also mention that Deen isn't suitable as a denoiser, it is more of a deblocker, it does a good job in removing blocks from a video.
PS: Unless you have this kind of noise, don't even think about using Edeen, it is too strong.

The strong denoisers should usually get rid of all noise, but there's always that nifty touch to add. You can add a very light denoiser then (undot or removegrain(1))

** At this point, we have looked at some Denoise filters.
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SHARPENING FILTERS

When the edges of the source are blurred out and aren't really solid, you can sharpen them. Sharp edges are always very nice to look at, and give you that HD feel, even on mini-encodes.
However, sharpness = size, which is not something we can afford on a mini-sized encode. Therefore, we can't sharpen to our liking and with mini-encodes in mind, the sharpening must be subtle.

Filters that create this effect can be devided into 2:
Pure Sharpners: MSharpen, Unfilter(+,+), LSF(mod)
Line Darkening: Toon, MFtoonlite, VMtoon, Hysteria, FastLineDarken(mod)
Read about some HERE
Also, there's a "warpsharper", which makes the lines more thin: Warpsharp, Awarpsharp

Sharpners require tweaking, else they will create "aliasing", a stairs-like effect on lines that become a mess of jaggies.
Sharpener work in different ways and produce different results:
- LSFmod has better percieved quality but slowish
- MSharpen has a mode (mask=true) that allows you to easily tweak the settings so you can sharpen exactly what you want.
I do not like its sharpening though, as it has a tendancy to produce white dots and alias.
- Unfilter, fast and simple, a low positive value can be used for a subtle effect.
- Toon family, MFlite is super nice when tweaked, vmtoon is -IMO- the best in darkening but veryslow. The normal Toon at low values (0.x) is usually enough.
- Awarpsharp, a "controversial" filter. By making the lines thiner, you cut on bitrate and have a better looking video. Unfortunatly, the video won't look normal anymore, since it is way different now.
Go with low values for this (<10), unless you know what you are doing ^^

Let's look at some of these filters at work:
Plain:
i3.lulzimg.com/9c30fc3da7.png
Filtered
i3.lulzimg.com/c52cf11125.png > Awarpsharp(depth=8 )
i3.lulzimg.com/9ff1d2f623.png > lsfmod(defaults="slow")
i3.lulzimg.com/0510b28ad1.png > mftoonlite()
i3.lulzimg.com/e5e18340cd.png > toon()
i3.lulzimg.com/5e93eee70e.png > vmtoon()

** At this point, we have looked on different sharpeners.
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ADJUSTMENT FILTERS
TWEAK FILTER
A straight-forward coloring filter, you can adjust the saturation, brightness, contrast and hue of you video.
Default is like this: Tweak(cont=1.0,sat=1.10,bright=0,hue=0)
Let's try to use Tweak on this:

And with the following:

Tweak(hue=0.0, sat=1.1, bright=-10, cont=1.05)

We get:



I find it a nice adjustment.

The above will make the source more Saturated with colours so faded out sources will look better.
Similarly read more about tweak HERE

Try to avoid colour changing, recent encodes won't need them. But a 1998 rip, well...
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LEVELS FILTER(DrAbdelkader Contribution)
As for the level filter,
Use it to give some sharpness/darkening/ decrease the contrast or brightness in the source:

levels(5,1,250,0,250) #--> more effective on black (like black hair, lines, eyes)levels(0,1,250,0,255) #--> makes white brighterlevels(0,1,250,-5,250) #--> more effective on dark colors (brown, dark blue, dark red and so on) ,+ve values make the brighter it wont help sharpeninglevels(0,1,255,0,250) #--> makes bright colors darker too (white will turn grayish,pink,cyan will be darkened)

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ANTIALIASING FILTERS
In case you had to use a strong sharpening value, or the source natuarally suffers from aliasing, then this kind of filters is the way to go.
There are many AA scripts, and all of them are slow, so don't make it a habit of using.
More on AA scripts here
Since they're not much tweakable, they're pretty easy to use, just know when to use them.


So basically this is it. You know the filters to fix your source.
Note that encoding from ISOs involve more work than this, and will require further documentation

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[BRINGING EVERYTHING TOGETHER]]

Let's take the denoising picture we had earlier and fix it up with everything we learnt so far:
Before:


After:

eDeen(r=6,tuv=1q2,ty=10,luv=1,ly=1,hqc=true)unfilt er(20,20)Vmtoon()aaa()Tweak(hue=0.0, sat=1.1, bright=-5, cont=1.05)




Even when upscaled to 4:3 HD it doesn't look that bad
Before/After: i3.lulzimg.com/b625a6d74d.png || i3.lulzimg.com/f5e1e26712.png


eDeen(r=6,tuv=12,ty=10,luv=1,ly=1,hqc=true)unfilte r(20,20)Vmtoon()aaa()Tweak(hue=0.0, sat=1.1, bright=-5, cont=1.05)Spline64resize(960,720)aWarpSharp(8)

Note how I used awarpsharp only after I upscaled to counter the bluriness of upscaling.
Still, avoid upscaling please, it will still be artificial.
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So your script is now ready. Depending on the filters you put in it, the avs file might not play smoothly (or at all) in a mediaplayer.
I recommand you to use AVSPmod to preview changes to your file. Just load 2 tabs, one without any filters (just load the source) and the other with your final script.

Now you need to encode this avs script on any AviSynth supporting encoder(Will show it to you on next guide) ^_^
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Q.)Why Pre-processing and Processing need to be separated?
Pre-processing is a totally different thing when compared with processing or encoding.
Specialised attention should be paid to it and Megui or StaxRip should not be used for both these purposes.
Most of the time it will crash megui while loading preview and if you were encoding something all your progress will be lost.
It's better to use Pre-processing be done on pre-processing software and processing on processing ones
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Some interesting stuff to read about filters--->
1.)Complete guide LINK1 || LINK2
2.)Working with DVD Footage LINK1
3.)Smootheners LINK1
4.)Sharpeners LINK1
5.)Interlace Removal LINK1
6.)Avisynth Wiki Here
7.)About Filters: Internal|External
8.)Filters Download: Here
10.)Animesuki's Avisynth Thread here

Screenshots on this guide Here
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Note -- most of the guides refer it to as Post Processing instead of Pre processing because they are Working with a DVD source and have already done the pre-processing separately

I will keep adding links when I find more interesting stuff to add ^_^

[knight999]

sorry lah mende nie saye copy paste jer.... tapi dah try dah ok jer sume

kalo x faham camne sile pegi kat sini http://minitheatre.org/forum/13-guid...rocessing.html

[hazrex]

nice sharing... tp pening aku nk phmkn 1 demi 1 hahaha... alasan sbb mls bc je ekeke...

[fideldesu]

thank for the info, tapi fuhhh complicated nye...

[Hybrid_nXo]

ya kalo nk blaja p d minithearthe..yg code2 ats 2 utk modified kn..better fidel-ku amek yg mod

dh,yg aku share dlm thread STK

[knight999]

ya kalo nk blaja p d minithearthe..yg code2 ats 2 utk modified kn..better fidel-ku amek yg mod

dh,yg aku share dlm thread STK

btul2 yg nie untuk yg betul2 nak kualiti jer kalo nak buat untuk personal bleh arr or utk pro

[MAE]

mae buh sticky thread ni.. bagus utk beginner cam mae ni..

[knight999]

Nie jumpe part 2 punye plak..... ok ann... kalo share walaupon bukan sendiri punye...
bukan ape nak bagi tau kat korang gak yg tak tahu kan..... takpe kan..................??



Part A - Encoding settings explained.


In this part, I'm going to go through and explain some of the settings in x264, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of these settings.
The first thing I will point out is that sitting around manually tweaking settings won't make your encodes look much better than just using defaults and presets. But if you’re going to touch the settings, it’s useful to know what they all do.

Secondly, I don't use presets or tunings so I won't be explaining them.

Lastly, I'm not going to get into really technical, mathematical explanations of how it all works, so if it seems like I'm oversimplifying things, that's because I am.
Now onto the guide.

Encoding/rate control mode:

x264 has several different modes that control the relationship between file size and quality.
These modes are:

CQ, aka Constant Quantizer
In x264 everything works with quantizers or "quants". Basically, quants are a measure of how lossy or compressed a frame is, in comparison to lossless. A quant of 0 is lossless, while the highest quant of 51 is as lossy as it gets.
Constant Quantizer mode gives the exact same quant to every frame, disables qcomp, ignores AQ and locks out MB-Tree. Complex scenes with lots of detail, grain, contrast etc.. will have the same quality as simpler scenes and the file size will be large as well as unpredictable. Definitely the worst mode for low-bitrate encodes.


CRF, aka Constant Rate Factor/Quality
CRF mode is similar to CQ mode, only far more advanced. It uses qcomp to strike a balance between complex scenes and simple scenes, adding much needed variance in quants. It also allows the use of AQ and MB-Tree, so it retains a lot more detail than CQ mode at the same file size.
CRF mode isn’t based on a set bitrate, so although the file size is unpredictable, you won't get massive fluctuations in quality between scenes of varying complexity.

In my encodes of Baccano, I turned the unpredictable file sizes into a positive thing. All episodes were encoded at CRF 18, so the episode which only needed 40MB has the same level of quality as the episode that needed 84MB. There were 16 episodes in total and at 60MB each the series would've been 960MB in size. Add up all the sizes of my CRF encodes and you get 959MB. But CRF mode didn't just save me a measly megabyte, it made sure that the action packed episodes didn't turn out all blocky and disgusting. It didn't do all the work itself however, I went through several encodes and tweaked the settings until I got the sizes I wanted.


ABR, aka average bitrate
A single pass mode that gives out a size according to the bitrate you set. This mode is as fast as CRF and kind of similar, but the variance in bitrate is much more limited. At low birates, this mode is either slightly better or equal to Constant Quantizer, but worse than CRF. I wouldn't bother using it.


2-Pass VBR
This mode can also encode to a specific file size, but the variance in bitrate isn’t as limited, so the quality is much higher than ABR and pretty much identical to CRF.
The first of the two passes is used to determine where each type of frame should be placed, and what CRF value is needed to hit the target bitrate.
One of the advantages of a 2-Pass encode is that if you don't like the results of the second pass, you can simply change your settings and do another second pass. Some settings can't be changed on the second pass: number of b-frames, b-adapt, weighted b/p-frames, no-fast-pskip, rc-lookahead and enabling/disabling mbtree.




Encoding options:
X264 has tons of encoding options that can be adjusted to your liking. The ones that trade speed for quality are generally the most important options, but there are really slow options that provide little to no benefit. Also, there are some options that should never be adjusted. After reading this, you should begin to understand which options are which.


Turbo first pass
For 2-Pass encodes, most encoder GUIs have an option called Turbo mode or something similar. Older versions of x264 would use your slow settings on both passes, and enabling this option would make the GUI use faster options on the first pass. Newer versions of x264 do this by default, because using slow settings on the first pass is practically useless.
This option should always be on; if you have time to spare, you’re better off using slower options on the second pass, e.g. more reference frames.
If you disable this option, --slow-firstpass will be added to the commandline.


Deblock, aka loop filter
x264, like any other encoder, sees your video as one big arrangement of blocks that move around and change colour. Anime episodes with lots of action are harder to compress because there are more rapid changes in blocks on a frame by frame basis.
All modes except Constant Quantizer will use higher quants for action scenes. Higher quants mean more blocks and this is where deblocking comes in.
The deblock setting has two parts, the first number - Alpha which controls the strength of deblocking in areas of where the blocks are similar, and the second number - Beta, which controls the overall strength of deblocking/ block detection. Higher deblock settings give a blurrier image. Lower deblock settings give a sharper image. It’s important to remember that a deblock setting of 0:0 does not mean zero deblocking; it is simply the default deblocking strength.
You can actually go into your video decoding settings and disable deblocking if you want to see what zero deblocking really looks like. Or, you can just believe me when I say it looks terrible.


Reference frames, aka refs
A reference frame is a frame that other frames copy blocks from. Setting this to 16 means x264 can copy blocks from up to 16 previous frames, which can be of great benefit to anime due to large amounts of duplicate frames, low amounts of noise and large areas of flat color.
Having a high number of refs will heavily affect encoding speed, because it increases how far back x264 has to look while tracking changes in blocks. However, it is the best option in terms of trading speed for quality.


B-Frames
A B-Frame is a highly compressed frame that only contains information on blocks that are different from the previous and next frames. Increasing the maximum number of B-Frames allows x264 to use more B-Frames in a row, which again, provides great benefit in anime. When using B-Adapt=2, higher numbers of B-Frames will slow down your first/single pass.


B-Adapt
x264 has two different types of adaptive B-Frame prediction. Mode 1 – which is quick and dirty, and Mode 2 – which is slow and extensive. The first mode is very fast and gets slower as you decrease the maximum amount of B-frames. The second mode can produce better looking encodes even with the default maximum of 3 B-Frames, so if you have the time, use Mode 2.


Weighted B-Frames
Different GUIs have different names for it. Don’t disable it.


B-Pyramid
This setting allows B-Frames to be used as reference frames, which increases encoding efficiency. B-Pyramid has two modes, Normal – the default mode and Strict – a mode that complies with the standards of blu-ray disc encoding. Unless you find yourself encoding a blu-ray disc, you’ll want to leave this set to normal. Don’t disable this option.


B-Bias – This setting increases the chance that x264 will use a B-Frame over another type of frame.
Because B-Frames are so efficient, this option could be useful for encoding at low bitrates, but B-Adapt=2 tends to be very efficient anyways.


Weighted P-Frames
This option increases the quality of fades, especially when used with MB-Tree. It has two modes, the default mode – Smart and a slightly faster mode – Blind. Keep this set to smart mode.


No-fast-pskip – Enabling this option will noticeably slow down encoding, especially with high amounts of refs. The amount of quality you gain is either non-existent, or extremely unnoticeable.


Scenecut
In video encoding, a scene change is when a new frame has a very high percentage of difference from a group of previous frames. Increasing scenecut makes the scene change detection more sensitive, which can lead to x264 placing more high quality, bitrate heavy I-Frames. Decreasing it will lessen sensitivity.


AQ
As I mentioned earlier, encoders see your video as a bunch of blocks. Some of these blocks don’t have many details, and are very compressible, while others have lots of detail and aren’t very compressible. Without AQ, most of the bitrate in a frame goes towards very detailed parts and smooth parts can end up blocky. AQ counters this by taking bitrate away from complex parts like edges and shifting it towards the smoother parts of the frame. AQ has two modes, but mode 2 is better for anime, because it varies the strength automatically.


MBTree
MBTree works similarly to AQ, but instead of only looking for simple blocks within a single frame, it uses lookahead to find the most static parts of your video, and moves bitrate away from moving blocks to these more static blocks. For anime, this works much better than only using qcomp, because if there are scenes that are mostly static, e.g. only a characters lips are moving, a character walks in front of a static background etc, MBTree can reduce the detail on the moving parts and increase the detail on the static parts.


Rc-Lookahead
This setting controls how far ahead MBTree will look, for consistently static blocks. Higher settings will increase the amount of detail kept, but will also increase your ram usage. 120 is a good setting for anything from SD to 720p. For higher resolutions, you'll probably need to decrease it to 72, or x264 will attempt to go over the 32-bit 2GB ram limit and crash.


Qcomp
Again, qcomp is similar to AQ and MBTree, but instead of acting upon blocks within a frame, it can only vary the bitrate given to the entire frame. So instead of giving more bitrate to static parts of a frame, qcomp gives less bitrate to high motion frames and gives more bitrate to static frames.
However, when MBTree is enabled, qcomp also controls the balance between giving more bitrate to static parts vs moving parts.


Motion Estimation mode/algorithm
In video encoding, motion estimation is used to track the movement of blocks between frames. Higher/slower modes track blocks more accurately, which increases compression. Uneven multi-hexagon or UMH is the most commonly used mode and isn’t much slower than the lower modes. The exhaustive search modes, ESA and TESA give a huge speed hit for tiny gains in quality.


Subme (aka Subpixel refinement)
Subme tracks the motion of pixels within blocks. Again, higher/slower settings do this more accurately and will increase compression.
Subme 9 isn’t much slower than subme 7, but gives very noticeable gains in quality.
Subme 10 is quite a bit slower than subme 9, but the gains in quality aren’t as noticeable.


ME Range
This setting controls the range of pixels that motion estimation will search through while tracking the motion of blocks. When using UMH, setting this to 32 won’t be much slower than setting it to 16.
Higher settings can increase compression, especially at high resolutions.


Trellis (aka trellis quantization)
Trellis quantization has two modes, Mode 1 – which only affects how many bits go to each block within a frame, and Mode 2 – which also effects the kinds of blocks that are chosen within a frame. Trellis basically has the opposite effect of AQ, it increases compression by taking bitrate away from flat, smooth areas. Mode 2 is very beneficial to anime and is required by subme 10.


Psy-RD
This setting increases sharpness by applying less compression to sharp, detailed and/or grainy areas. Setting this too high can lead to artifacts, especially at low bitrates in anime.


Psy-Trellis
Psy-Trellis basically does the same thing trellis does, but it doesn’t increase compression. It tries to make the image sharper by taking bitrate away from fine details and textures and uses that bitrate on complex parts of the image, like edges. As with Psy-RD, setting this too high can lead to artifacts.


No-Psy
This option zeroes out any psy-rd values and disables all psy-optimizations, leading to a blurrier image. Only for experimental purposes.


No-dct-decimate
This setting will reduce compression.
At low bitrates, it will do one of two things:
A. Hurt quality
B. Nothing
Don’t bother using it.


And the same goes for every other setting I haven’t mentioned.
When I make Part B of this guide, which will explain how all this compression works with pretty pictures and stuff, what those other settings do will become clear.
Until then, good luck and happy encoding.





Notes:
For anime, increasing the number of reference frames is the best option out of any of them.
8 refs with subme 7 will always look better and encode FASTER than 5 refs with subme 8/9, even at 720p, or 1080p, or 4320p.


If you’re using B-Adapt 1, do not, and I repeat, DO NOT set the B-Frames to less than 16.
If you want to use less B-Frames, use B-Adapt 2.
B-Adapt 2 with 3 B-Frames will always look better than ANY number of B-Frames + B-Adapt 1.
At low bitrates, B-Adapt 1 sucks. Badly.
Those minutes/seconds/whatever you save by using B-Adapt 1, turn into minutes of my time wasted while downloading your terrible encodes.


Last but not least, when I said every other setting I haven’t mentioned isn’t worth bothering with, I meant it.
Yes, even that one you want to ask about.

[Hybrid_nXo]

encode gna CRF lg lawa dr gna bitrate utk anime.

lg kcik value crf 2 lg bsar size file encode 2 kualiti lebih better

[knight999]

encode gna CRF lg lawa dr gna bitrate utk anime.

lg kcik value crf 2 lg bsar size file encode 2 kualiti lebih better

yeke ajar arr skit.....hehe...